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Subject: Building a Computer - The Guide for Everybody (And Freebies on the Web)
Content: Okay, you are reading this thread because you are interested in building a computer. This will cover the Who,Why, What, and most importantly, the How of building a computer. Mods, if you would like to sticky this, or put it into the content forums, feel free. Everybody, if there is something wrong with this, please tell me and I'll review and correct this guide. Words in italics are technical terms that you may or may not know, but I'll try to explain them as best I can, and the explanations will be in smaller text. If you need assistance, find our discussion thread and post. Don't worry, because useful or questioning posts won't be considered a bump if this happens to be an old thread at the time you read this. Who Almost anybody can build a computer. These days, the hardest part of building a computer is choosing what parts you want. If you can put a game cartridge into a Nintendo, odds are that you can do the physical building of a computer. You don't need to understand the way the BIOS (Basic Input-Output System) uses binary signatures, you don't need to understand how many packets of data a PCI-Express card can send per second, you just need to know what you want to do with your computer, and that will guide you in the right direction for selecting your parts. Why As I see it, there are three main reasons why people should build their own computers: 1. Sometimes, building a computer for yourself can be cheaper than purchasing one from a manufacturer or store, because you are getting only what you need and want, and nothing more. You don't have to pay for what you don't want, and you don't have to pay for the labor that goes into building it. 2. It is easier to upgrade or repair your computer, because you have used parts that are widely available and very compatible. You don't have to purchase parts from a certain manufacturer to fit into your computer, which allows for smarter (and cheaper) shopping. 3. Building a computer builds your basic understanding of what is in that wonderful little box, so you can better appreciate, troubleshoot, and (most importantly) brag about your computer. What As I have stated before, the hardest part of building a computer is selecting your parts. This section is broken up into further subsections, each containing one part or set of parts, with an explanation of what kind to get. CPU (Central Processing Unit), or Processor: This is much like the 'brain' of the computer. It processes all of the data for the computer. The higher the clock speed, the better the processor is.Often, when you look at a processor, it will say something like 2.4 GHz. That 2.4 GHz is the clock speed, which is basically how many calculations it can make per second. GHz means Gigahertz: Giga means billion, and Hertz means cycles per second. A 2.4 GHz processor can make 2,400,000,000 basic calculations every second. Many processors are dual-core, in which case the clock speed applies to each core. This does not mean the clock speed can be doubled to attain the actual speed, it means that each core runs at that speed. Each processor will have a socket type, which tells you what kind of motherboard you need. I would suggest either getting a single-core processor of at least 2.5 GHz, or a dual-core of at least 1.5 GHz. CPU Cooling Fan: This is a fan that keeps your Processor cool, because modern Processors can run very hot, even so hot that they would melt their own cores if not properly cooled. Most retail Processors include a fan and/or heatsink (metal piece that absorbs heat from CPU and disperses it) in the box, but OEM processors don't. See the note below about OEM. Motherboard: This piece of the computer is what every other device is plugged into. It has sockets for the Processor, Video Card, Memory, Optical Drives, Floppy Drives, Hard Disk Drives, and also has all of the connectors you see on the back of your computer. When you purchase your motherboard, make sure the CPU Socket type matches your Processor, otherwise they will not work together. Also note the type of Memory (RAM) that your Motherboard will accept, such as PC 4200, etc. RAM (Random Access Memory), or Memory: This is volatile memory that temprorarily stores information while your computer is running.Volatile memory is memory that stores data only while power is running through it. RAM is the most common type. Non-volatile memory, such as flash drives, memory cards, and Solid State Drives, keep their data, even when there is no power. The more Memory your computer has, the more it can do at once. Every program, including the Operating System, uses RAM while it runs. Memory also has clock speed, but it can be refrenced by MHz or by PC XX00. A certain clock speed in MHz will always have the same PC number. Make sure that your clock speed matches that which your Motherboard can accept, otherwise they will not work together. Also, you must match the type of RAM to your Motherboard. The most common types on the market are DDR and DDR2, with the latter generally being better. If your Memory is Dual Channel, and your Motherboard is Dual Channel capable, you will get a performance boost, but you can use RAM and a Motherboard that are or are not Dual Channel without negative effects. Dual Channel RAM must have two modules, or sticks, that are the same capacity and clock speed, and must be plugged into the correct ports, to get the boost. I would recommend purchasing at least 1 GB (1024 MB) of RAM. Hard Disk Drive (HDD), or Hard Drive: This drive is where everything is stored, regardless of whether or not there is power running through the computer or not. This is where your music, documents, operating system, pictures, and all other files are kept. The larger the Hard Drive, the more you can hold. The faster the speed of your Hard Drive in RPM, the faster your files can be accessed. The two main types of connections are IDE, which use ribbon cables, and SATA, which have thinner cables. SATA drives are newer, and can access data much faster than IDE drives, and SATA cables also keep your computer cooler by allowing more air flow. Check your motherboard to see which it supports, though most new ones have connectors for both. I would suggest getting a SATA Hard Drive of at least 160 GB Video Card: The Video card handles and outputs everything you see on the screen. They allow you to hook up a monitor, television, or even an HDTV to your computer. Some high-end Video Cards even have their own processor, dedicated to graphics. Generally, the more RAM your Video Card has, the better it is, and the higher the clock speed (if it has a processor) is, the better. Video Cards are usually sold as either AGP or PCI-express, which are two different socket types. The latter is newer, faster, and (in my opinion) better. Make sure that your Motherboard supports the type of Video Card you purchase. They will slide into your Motherboard, and will leave plugs for your monitor/TV on the back. NOTE: Some Motherboards have onboard video, but a Video Card is almost always a better choice.Onboard Video is like a video card built into the Motherboard, but it usually does not have a seperate processor, and usually has much less dedicated RAM, sometimes even sharing your Memory, which takes up resources. I would recommend getting a PCI-express Video Card of at least 256 MB. Optical Drive(s): An Optical Drive is any drive that accepts a disc that is read/written by a laser, hence the name optical. There are CD, DVD, Blu-Ray, and HD-DVD drives available for desktops, but the last two are quite expensive, and are not yet needed in most cases. The read and write speed of these drives is in X form, such as 52X. This means 52 times (X) faster than normal play speed, so if you had a 52 minute music CD, and your Optical Drive can read at 52X, you could theoretically rip (download) it in one minute, though processor speed affects that, too. Anything that says 'burner' can write, and anything that says 'ROM', which stands for Read Only Memory, can only read. If a drive says 'DVD burner,' chances are that it can also burn CDs. I would suggest getting at least one DVD Burner. Floppy Drive: This is an antiquated drive that is more often than not combined with a Media Card Reader. The best floppies can hold 1.44 MB, whereas a relatively cheap Flash Drive can hold more than a thousand times that. If you plan on running a very old Operating System, it is great to have one of these. Power Supply (PSU): A Power Supply does what its name suggests, it supplies power to the computer. There is usually a large power plug for the Motherboard, and at least four smaller plugs for all other parts, such as Hard Drives, Optical Drives, and high-end Video Cards. A power supply usually sits in the top of the back of the computer, and has a plug on the rear for your power cord. How much wattage you need for your computer depends on what parts you put into it. There are many wattage calculators on the internet, and one is here: [url]http://www.journeysystems.com/?powercalc[/url] if you need it. I would recommend getting a Power Supply that has more than enough wattage for your computer, in case you want to upgrade it later. Case: A case holds all of the parts of your computer together, allows airflow to cool said parts, and sometimes looks wicked cool. Make sure that your case size matches the form factor of your Motherboard, such as ATX, Micro-ATX, etc. Most good quality cases include at least one fan, and some have clear panels to see the inside of your computer while it is on. Some even have lights to make your PC glow. Keyboard, Mouse, and Monitor: These are peripherals that allow you to interact with your computer. Keyboards and mice can be either PS/2 or USB, so make sure that your Motherboard has the correct connections for them. A Monitor can be a CRT, which is like a 'tube tv,' an LCD, which uses liquid crystal pixels, or an HDTV, which can be either LCD or Plasma. CRT Monitors are usually very inexpensive, but are bulky and heavy. LCD Monitors are usually wide screen nowadays, and give a sharper picture than CRT Monitors. If you have an HDTV that you'd like to use as a Monitor, make sure that your Video Card and/or HDTV have the right connections, and you have the appropriate cables. Plasma screens are not recommended for use as monitors, as they have the risk of burn-in, which makes a permanent image on your screen. Burn-in comes from a single image being displayed for too long, such as the task bar at the bottom of the screen. Note About OEM Parts: OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts are traditionally sold as the basic parts, without any accessories. If you purchase an OEM Hard Drive, you will get the Hard Drive, but no cable to connect it to the Motherboard. If you purchase an OEM Processor, you will get the Processor, but no fan or heatsink to cool it. OEM doesn't mean bad, though. Often, a computer manufacturer will order hundreds or thousands of the same part to attain a discount, and they are often left with extras. They will sell these at less-than-retail prices, which usually include enough of a discount to cover the cost of the cables, etc. How Step 1 – Collect Materials: Using the above “What” section, gather all of your materials. Double check that they will all work together, then open the boxes. Check that all pieces are in the boxes. Leave everything in their static-free bags that they should come in, for now. Make sure that you are careful not to have static buildup, don't work on carpeted surfaces, and possibly even invest in an anti-static bracelet if you plan on building computers often. Note: before each step, ground yourself to release static electricity, as it can harm your computer and its parts. Step 2 – Install the Power Supply: If your case did not come with a Power Supply, you will need to screw it into the appropriate place in your case. This should be relatively simple. Step 3 – Install the CPU: First, read the instructions that came with your Motherboard. It will tell you where each socket and expansion slot is, too. Processors today are designed to be ZIF, Zero Insertion Force. This means that you should NEVER force a CPU into its socket. Always be gentle with your Processor, because it is very fragile, and is often the most expensive piece of a computer. Check that your processor is turned the right direction, and place it gently into its socket. Check that it is level and there are no gaps between the processor and the socket, and close the clip that holds down the CPU. Step 4 – Install the CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink: Make sure that your fan is attached to your heatsink, then make sure both your CPU and your heatsink are clean and dust free. If your heat sink already has a sealing/cooling compound applied to it, then peel of the cover and skip the first sub-step. First, apply a bit of sealing/cooling compound, such as Arctic Silver, to the processor die, smoothing it out and making sure there are no bubbles. Next, without tilting or twisting as you go down, set the heatsink down on the CPU properly in line. Using either clips or screws, depending on what your Motherboard and heatsink have, secure it in place. Check that it is in place: put your hand about a half inch from the Heatsink and Fan and tip your Motherboard upright, being ready to catch it if it falls. This tests whether you screwed it in well, which is quite important. Plug the power cord into your fan on one side, and the appropriate place on your Motherboard on the other side. Step 5 – Install the Memory: Refer to your Motherboard’s manual to find out if Dual Channel RAM is supported. If it is, it will tell you which slots to put your modules of RAM into to get the aforementioned performance boost. If the manual doesn’t specify, choose the slot that is labeled 0, then 1, 2, etcetera. Making sure that the notches in the RAM match the notches in the slots, gently insert your stick of Memory. Once they are fully inserted, the little clips at each end of the slot should be closed. If not, press slightly firmer on the RAM to insert it fully, once at each end. If you are sure it is in, but the clips are not locked, press them inwards. Do this for each module you will be installing. Step 6 – Install the Motherboard: This is a general way to do this, but some Motherboards need special care. Refer to your Motherboard’s manual. First, figure out which mounting holes in the case will be used, and install the spacers that should have come with your Motherboard. Second, place the Motherboard on the spacers, and screw it in. Lastly, place your hand about a half inch from the Motherboard and tip your case upright, being ready to catch it if it falls. This tests whether you screwed it in well, which is quite important. After it is screwed in place, connect the ATX power plug (usually the biggest one coming out of the Power Supply) to the appropriate place on the Motherboard. Plug the power cord into the PSU, make sure no body parts, metal pieces, or anything at all is touching the PSU or Motherboard, and switch on the power. Hit the power button. Most Motherboards will have an LED light and/or a beep to tell that the power is running and all is well. Hit the power button again. Turn off the PSU and disconnect the power cord from the back. If it worked, you can move to step 7. If not, check all connections and try again. Step 7 – Install the Floppy Drive (Optional): If you are installing a Floppy Disk Drive (FDD), check whether it connects using a USB header or FDD cable. Screw it into the appropriate Drive Bay, and make sure it is flush with the front of the case. If it uses a USB header, which usually happens when it is built into a media reader, plug one end of the cord into a USB header on the Motherboard, and the other end into the FDD. If it uses an FDD cable, plug one end of the cord into the large header labeled FDD on the Motherboard, and the other end into the FDD. Plug one of your power connections into the FDD. Step 8 – Install the Hard Drive: When you install your Hard Disk Drive (HDD) check whether it connects using a SATA or IDE cable. Screw it into the appropriate Drive Bay, and make sure it is aligned so you can access the connectors. If it uses a SATA cable, which usually happens with newer drives, plug one end of the cord into a SATA connection on the Motherboard, and the other end into the HDD. If it uses an IDE cable, make sure the jumpers are configured for Cable Select, unless you will be attaching more than one Hard Drive, in which case, I'm sure you'd be willing to research how to configure your jumpers and cables. Plug one end of the cord into the large header labeled IDE on the Motherboard, and the other end into the HDD. Plug one of your power connections into the HDD. Step 9 – Install the Optical Drive: If you are installing an Optical Drive, check whether it connects using a SATA or IDE cable. Screw it into the appropriate Drive Bay, and make sure it is flush with the front of the case. If it uses a SATA cable, which is starting to become more common, plug one end of the cord into a SATA connection on the Motherboard, and the other end into the Optical Drive. If it uses an IDE cable, make sure the jumpers are configured for Cable Select, unless you will be attaching more than one Optical Drive, in which case, I'm sure you'd be willing to research how to configure your jumpers and cables. Plug one end of the cord into the large header labeled IDE on the Motherboard, and the other end into the Optical Drive. Plug one of your power connections into the Optical Drive. Step 10 – Install the Video Card: Check which expansion slot will fit your Video Card, referring to they type (e.g. PCI-express, AGP, etc.) of Video Card and the slot on your Motherboard. Remove the metal plate in the case where the back of the Video Card will show. Making sure that the side of the Video Card that has the plugs one would expect to see on the back is facing the right way, insert the card into the slot. Screw the metal plate into the Case, so that you have access to the plugs from the back. Attach any necessary power cables, if there are any. Step 11 – Clean Up: Make sure all cables are plugged in and aren't in the way of anything, Put the power button from the Motherboard into the power button on the case, along with the LED indicators for the front, and put the case together. Attach your keyboard, mouse, monitor, power cord, and (if you'd like) speakers. Step 12 – Boot: Turn on your monitor first. Next, be ready to turn on your computer. If you hear any grinding, or any really strange noises, immediately turn off the computer, and talk with us in our discussion thread. Press the power button. Your power LED on the front of the computer should light up, the fans should spin, and the HDD should start spinning. You should see a basic boot screen, and that should give you a BIOS or Setup key to press. If you'd like, enter the BIOS to check that your hardware has been recognized. Most modern Motherboards have a BIOS that will automatically set up your hardware, unless you plan on overclocking. If you are reading this guide, though, you will probably not want to overclock. Turn your computer back off. Step 13 – Install the Operating System: Turn your computer on, insert the Operating System CD/DVD, and reboot your computer. Follow the on screen instructions for installing and setting up your Operating System. I would recommend Windows XP (~$100), Windows Vista(~$200-400), Ubuntu (free), Fedora (free), or whatever you please. Congratulations! You have just built a fine computer with your own two hands!